Patchouli: Perfume, Plant, Powerhouse

Patchouli: Perfume, Plant, Powerhouse

Written by: Isabel Finston 

What do Indian cashmere shawls, French socialites, the Hippy Movement, and some of history’s most successful scents have in common? Patchouli! 

A member of the mint family, this raw material’s scented history spans continents and centuries—in perfumery, patchouli oil is the second-most commonly used natural raw material! 

While citrus is the most common, many citrus fragrance compositions feature patchouli aspects—intrinsic to ‘chypre’ profiles, patchouli’s intoxicating scent features a variety of enchanting qualities! Recent formulation innovations have broadened the capabilities of this hero note!

 

Patchoulol: Product and Perfume-Part

Accounting for the majority of patchouli essential oil’s olfactive qualities, patchoulol is alcohol isolated from the leaves of the patchouli plant! 

The amount of patchoulol in patchouli essential oil depends on the distillation method! While perfumery has long relied on patchouli essential oil, Firmenich's release of its biotechnological innovation, ‘Clearwood,’ transformed fragrance formulation in 2014. 

To perfumers, the scent of Firmenich’s ‘Clearwood’ offers a softer, fresher profile than patchouli oil—the ingredient simultaneously represents a more sustainable source of patchouli notes and an impressive performance/longevity! 

‘Clearwood’ is produced through biotechnology—DNA is isolated from patchouli leaves, fermented using sustainably sourced sugarcane, and distilled to remove impurities. The final product features an abundance of patchoulol and a scent that reflects the term “blonde woods”—it finds itself in a hazy olfactive tapestry, somewhere between gentle, cocooning ambers and perfectly sharp earthy woods. 

Our accord, “Clearwood and Sage,” illustrates the bare brilliance of Clearwood’s subtlety—arrange a reservation at one of our scent studios and discover its delicate delight!

 

Patchouli Perfume: Past and Present

Originally used to prevent the destruction of cashmere accessories by moths on shipping voyages from India, the intoxicating scent of patchouli has been famed for its expressive qualities. 

Although its history of association has varied, from preference by captivated European 19th-century socialites to the wanderlust-struck Hippy Movement of the 1960s/70s and beyond, the scent of patchouli is universal. 

Or is it? You may be surprised that this enigmatic note is featured in many of history’s most famous fragrance profiles! 

Patchouli contributes to the perfect dynamism of ‘chypre’ fragrances and the sensuality of ‘amber’ scents. ‘Chypre’ fragrances feature resinousness and earthy aspects (like patchouli, oakmoss, and labdanum)—they’re often paired with citrus and floral notes to create a perfectly balanced sensory profile! 

Our offerings demonstrate the versatility of patchouli scents and chypre profiles—explore Reed, designed by Harry Fremont, our clean and modern marriage of ‘Clearwood’ with energetic florals and mossy herbs. Wanting to discover patchouli’s fruitier facets? Formulated by Annie Buzantian, Dylan features fresh patchouli and infectious fruit!

 

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